How to Groom a Curly Beard: Wash, Oil, Straighten and Shape
Why beard hair curls, the four-step routine that keeps a curly beard under control, and how to straighten it with heat without overdoing it.
The Short Version
- Beard hair is coarser than head hair and it curls as it grows. A comb alone only moves the curl around.
- The routine: wash, oil, straighten with heat, then shape.
- Use the lowest heat level that works: 1 or 2 for fine or short beards, 3 or 4 for thick or long ones.
- Straightening lasts until you wash the beard. Then it goes back to its natural shape.
A curly beard is not a problem to fix. It is a type of beard, and it needs a slightly different routine. Left alone it curls under the chin, frizzes at the sides and looks shorter than it is. With the right four steps it looks full and tidy all day.
Why beards curl
Beard hair is coarse and it does not grow straight out. It bends where it grows, and it has what you could call a curl memory: comb it straight in the morning and, without heat, it springs back within the hour. Dry hair curls and frizzes more, which is why winter is the hardest season for a curly beard.
That gives you two things to work with: moisture, so the hair is soft, and heat, which is the only thing that changes its shape for the day.
The four-step routine
1. Wash
Use a beard wash 3 to 4 times a week, not hair shampoo. Shampoo strips the oils a beard needs, and a dry curly beard is a frizzy one. Rinse, then pat it dry with a towel. Do not rub.
2. Oil
Work 3 to 4 drops of Beard Oil through the beard from roots to tips. It softens the hair, and it is made with heat-protective ingredients for the next step.
3. Straighten with heat
This is the step that changes a curly beard. A heated beard comb like the Beard Forger brings heat into the beard through its heating plates, with a guard between the plates and your skin.
- Start with a dry beard.
- Pick a heat level: 1 or 2 for fine or short beards, 3 or 4 for thick or long ones. Start low.
- Brush slowly from root to tip. Slow strokes give the best result.
- Do the sides first, then the chin, then under the chin, where the curl is strongest.
A full session takes about 8 minutes. The beard needs some length for this to work, more than about 2 cm, so the plates can reach in.
4. Shape
Finish with a pea-sized amount of Beard Shaper for shape and hold through the day.
Which heat level for which beard
| Your beard | Heat level | Tip |
|---|---|---|
| Fine or short | 1 to 2 | One slow pass is often enough |
| Thick or long | 3 to 4 | Work in sections, sides first |
| Long and very curly | 3 to 4 | Oil first, and go slowly under the chin |
3 questions
Find your heat level
The heat levels
Give it some length first
The beard needs some length for this to work, more than about 2 cm, so the plates can reach in.
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Common mistakes with a curly beard
- Combing it dry and hoping. A comb moves the curl. It does not change it.
- Washing it with shampoo every day. It dries the hair out and makes the frizz worse.
- Using the highest heat straight away. Start low and go up only if you need to.
- Fast strokes. The hair needs a moment of heat to change shape. Slow is what works.
- Trimming it while it is curled. A curly beard hides its length. Straighten or comb it out before you trim, or you will take off more than you meant to.
Can you do it without heat?
You can get a curly beard softer and tidier without heat: wash it right, oil it daily and use a shaper for hold. What you will not get is straight. If you like the curl and only want less frizz, that routine is enough. If you want it to lie flat, you need heat.
For more on taming an unruly beard, see how to tame a wild beard and the beard straightening brush guide.
Frequently asked questions
How do I straighten a curly beard?
Wash and dry it, add a few drops of beard oil, then brush slowly from root to tip with a heated beard comb at the lowest level that works.
How long does a straightened beard last?
Until you wash it. Water resets the hair to its natural shape.
Will it work on a short curly beard?
It needs some length, more than about 2 cm, so the heat can reach into the beard.
Should I use beard oil before or after?
Before. It softens the hair and adds heat protection. Use a shaper after for hold.
Why is my beard curly when my hair is straight?
Beard hair is a different, coarser type of hair. It is common to have a curly beard with straight hair.
The short answer
Wash, oil, straighten, shape. Moisture makes a curly beard soft, and heat is what makes it lie flat. If you want one tool for the heat step, take a look at the Beard Forger.
